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Where Modernity Meets Tradition - Pakistan's Karakoram mountains.

180 images Created 8 Jan 2021

Inside one of Pakistan’s Remote Region - Where Modernity Meets Tradition

Text ©Matthieu Paley
Over the years, a mountainous region in Pakistan has become my second home. I’ve seen firsthand how global events have hurt locals’ livelihoods and how technology has challenged the meaning of tradition.
PASU, Pakistan—Sajid Alvi is excited. He just got a grant to study in Sweden.
“My Ph.D. is about friction in turbo jet engines,” Alvi says. “I will work on developing new aerospace materials—real geeky stuff!”
Alvi’s relatives have come to bid him farewell as he prepares to leave his mountain village and study in a new country, some 3,000 miles away.
“We will see you again,” one of them says as they hang out in the potato field in front of Alvi’s house. “You know you won’t get far with a long beard like that. You look like Taliban!”
Alvi, dressed in low-hanging shorts and a Yankees cap, is far from a fundamentalist: He’s Wakhi, part of an ethnic group with Persian origins. And like everyone else here, he is Ismaili—a follower of a moderate branch of Islam whose imam is the Aga Khan, currently residing in France. There are about 15 million Ismailis around the world, and 20,000 live here in the Gojal region of northern Pakistan.
I’ve been visiting Gojal for 17 years, and I’ve watched as lives like Alvi’s have become more common here. Surrounded by the mighty Karakoram Mountains, the Ismailis here have long been relatively isolated, seeing tourists but little else of global events. But now, an improved highway and the arrival of mobile phones have let the outside world in, bringing new lifestyles and opportunities: Children grow up and head off to university, fashions change, and technology reshapes tradition. Gojal has adjusted to all of this, surprising me every time I return by showing me just how adaptable traditions can be.
Full story here: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/news/2016/10/gojali-pakistan-islam/
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  • Ismaili Scouts return home after a day’s excursion to a nearby village.
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  • Young Wakhis dance after celebrating Imamat Day, which marks the anniversary of the day their present (or Hazar) imam succeeded his predecessor. These young men study in big cities away from the mountains, and for them, this celebration is a time to reconnect with their homeland.
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  • Girls playing volleyball. During the yearly celebration of Imamat Day (11 July), a day to celebrate the crowning of the current Aga Khan. Ismailis usually celebrate this day with dancing and religious singing, sport activities etc. In Passu village, upper Hunza, Gojal region.
    MMi53134_160711_0281.jpg
  • Children on the sings during break at the school in Zood Khun village. Education is a priority in Ismaili communities. <br />
Life in Chipursan valley. It is the most Northwestern part of Pakistan, bordering Afghanistan and China. The people speak the Wakhi Language and belong to the Ismaili sect of Islam.
    MMi53134_160617_0108.jpg
  • Traditional Dance after a Polo match, Mastuj town, Chitral.
    MMi53134_160707_0243.jpg
  • Students teach each others music at the Bulbulik music school in Gulmit village, upper Hunza.
    MMi53134_160726_0457.jpg
  • A Wakhi home sports an embroidery of Prince Karim Aga Khan IV, the current imam of Ismaili Muslims. He has an estimated 15 million followers in more than 25 countries, including 20,000 in Gojal.
    MMi53134_160705_0228.jpg
  • Karim, a newly married, upload pictures to his phone.<br />
Love marriage of Karim and Samrina, in Sost village, upper Hunza.
    MMi53134_160713_0302.jpg
  • The "ruhsat", the emotional  time when the bride says good bye to the close members of her family before moving to the groom's home.
    MMi53134_160713_0306.jpg
  • The bride getting make up etc. Chapursan valley.
    MMi53134_160719_0395.jpg
  • Traditional game while coming out of the Jama Khana: girlfriend and relative of the bride arguing the price of the groom's shoes with a man from the groom's family.
    MMi53134_160714_0310.jpg
  • The bride cries as she leaves. Wedding celebration in upper Sost village, Gojal region.
    MMi53134_160714_0323.jpg
  • Preparing traditional wedding food, similar to cream of wheat.
    MMi53134_160715_0334.jpg
  • Women doing selfies while men are bringing a sheep on their motorcyle.
    MMi53134_160716_0345.jpg
  • The "ruhsat", the emotional  time when the bride says good bye to the close members of her family before moving to the groom's home. Zahir and Mariyam wedding celebration (love marriage), Zood Khun village, Chapursan valley.
    MMi53134_160718_0380.jpg
  • "We first met on social media, and we slowly fell in love," say Esar Ali and Shayna, who married 11 months ago.
    MMi53134_160616_0093.jpg
  • Shortly before reaching Passu village, a trekker walks along a hanging bridge across the Hunza River.
    MMi53134_160722_0436.jpg
  • A Wakhi mother and her kids.<br />
Life in Chipursan valley, the most Northwestern part of Pakistan, bordering Afghanistan and China. The people speak the Wakhi Language and belong to the Ismaili sect of Islam.
    MMi53134_160611_0036.jpg
  • Father and son. Two Wakhi men in Chipursan valley.
    MMi53134_160715_0338.jpg
  • Girls and boys scream, afraid that they car will fall in a water channel, Chapursan valley.
    MMi53134_160719_0422.jpg
  • A motorcyle on the Karakoram Highway. Gojal region, upper Hunza.
    MMi53134_160712_0291.jpg
  • A jeep on the road to Shimshal village, one of the remotest village in Gojal region, upper Hunza.
    MMi53134_160812_0551.jpg
  • The school in Zood Khun. Education is a priority in Ismaili communities. <br />
Life in Chipursan valley. It is the most Northwestern part of Pakistan, bordering Afghanistan and China. The people speak the Wakhi Language and belong to the Ismaili sect of Islam.
    MMi53134_160613_0045.jpg
  • The school in Zood Khun village. Education is a priority in Ismaili communities.
    MMi53134_160614_0061.jpg
  • The school in Zood Khun village. Education is a priority in Ismaili communities. <br />
Life in Chipursan valley. It is the most Northwestern part of Pakistan, bordering Afghanistan and China. The people speak the Wakhi Language and belong to the Ismaili sect of Islam.
    MMi53134_160617_0104.jpg
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