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Road to Laya - Bhutan

171 images Created 9 Feb 2021

An unpublished story shot for National Geographic.

Laya village, inhabited by the Layap people, is Bhutan’s remotest village and the country's highest settlement (3820m). The face of the village is changing, as a road is slowly being built. For now, it still takes 2 days walk to reach the village, helped by horses and yaks. But cultural changes are palpable, social media in particular is having a big impact on relationships. The community’s dress is getting less and less, the youth prefers the “Supreme” shirts. Polyandry, a local marital practice, is getting rarer.
Additionally, over the last 10 years, the famous Cordyceps worm is found in the upper elevations near the village. Pushed by an increasing demand coming from China, it has brought much wealth to this region. And with wealth comes even more changes.
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  • Horses and people in the foggy conditions in the lower pine forest. On the trek going from Laya village to the beginning of the drivable road.
    MM9034_190320_4098.jpg
  • Horses and people in the foggy conditions in the lower pine forest. On the trek going from Laya village to the beginning of the drivable road.
    MM9034_190320_4110.jpg
  • Lunch break during a snow storm. Visiting the only school in Laya village.
    MM9034_190318_2793.jpg
  • Motivational quotes on the wall of the classroom.
    MM9034_190318_2826.jpg
  • Every other day, Layap girl are asked to wear the traditional Layap outfit, including the conical bamboo hat. On other days, they must wear the "kira" the national dress. Visiting the only school in Laya village.
    MM9034_190318_2847.jpg
  • Life at Mr and Ms Wangchuk's house on the edge of the Laya village.
    MM9034_190319_3664.jpg
  • The Cordycep is a fungus that lives on certain caterpillars in the high mountain regions of the himalaya. Over the last 15 years, the fungus has changed the face of Laya. District officials said income poverty rate has today slumped by more than 90 percent because of the income generated by the fungus, mostly bought by Chinese.
    MM9034_190319_3627.jpg
  • Life at Mr and Ms Wangchuk's house on the edge of the Laya village.
    MM9034_190319_3646.jpg
  • Views over Laya village after a snow storm.
    MM9034_190319_3108.jpg
  • The Gasa buddhist monastery or Gasa Dzong.
    MM9034_190315_0753.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages.
    MM9034_190315_0479.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages. The focal point of the tshechus are Cham dances. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingma teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.
    MM9034_190316_1330.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages. The focal point of the tshechus are Cham dances. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingma teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.
    MM9034_190316_1350.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages.
    MM9034_190316_1375.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages. The focal point of the tshechus are Cham dances. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingma teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.
    MM9034_190316_1584.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages.
    MM9034_190316_1647.jpg
  • Layap grandfather and grandmother with their grand daughter wearing an Supreme shirt. The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages.
    MM9034_190316_1661.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages.
    MM9034_190315_0736.jpg
  • Young monk watching the performance. The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages.
    MM9034_190315_0427.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages. The focal point of the tshechus are Cham dances. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingma teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.
    MM9034_190315_0209.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages. The focal point of the tshechus are Cham dances. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingma teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.
    MM9034_190315_0262.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages. The focal point of the tshechus are Cham dances. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingma teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.
    MM9034_190316_1202.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages. The focal point of the tshechus are Cham dances. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingma teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.
    MM9034_190315_0308.jpg
  • The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages. The focal point of the tshechus are Cham dances. These costumed, masked dances typically are moral vignettes, or based on incidents from the life of the 9th century Nyingma teacher Padmasambhava and other saints.
    MM9034_190315_0339.jpg
  • Head monk doing a selfie. The Tshechu of the Gasa monastery on the road leading to Laya. Tshechu are annual religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district on the tenth day of a month of the lunar Tibetan calendar. Tshechus are large social gatherings, which perform the function of social bonding among people of remote and spread-out villages.
    MM9034_190315_0121.jpg
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