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PAMIR AND WAKHAN (9 stories) All Galleries

A walk through time, Afghanistan - 2017

253 images Created 25 Jan 2021

Extract from the text by Paul Salopek:

"Paley was voluble and earthy, a French Zorba. He was joining me for a rare foot crossing of Afghanistan’s Wakhan corridor, a forgotten redoubt tucked high behind the mountain walls of the Hindu Kush. In the mornings he performed yoga on the road to soothe a tricky back. Expanded font settings on my laptop were my own concessions to middle age. But I didn’t feel old. Not at all. Walking the Earth makes you a child again. By the time I eventually reach Tierra del Fuego, my destination six or seven years away, I will be newborn.
I glanced back.
Paley was doing a Wakhi dance now—paddling his arms and shimmying his hips along the desolate banks of the Panj. Across the glacial currents in Afghanistan, a few delighted Wakhi shepherds in dirt-brown shalwar kameezes gathered to mimic his moves. Everyone dances in Afghanistan."

Full story here : https://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2018/09/across-the-roof-of-the-world-as-a-historic-journey-proceeds/

This story is part of the Out of Eden project: Paul Salopek’s 21,000-mile odyssey is a decade-long experiment in slow journalism. Moving at the beat of his footsteps, Paul is walking the pathways of the first humans who migrated out of Africa in the Stone Age and made the Earth ours.
More on Out of Eden: https://outofedenwalknonprofit.org/
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  • The end of the lower valley of the Wakhan – you can see the mountain walls in the distance, that’s where we are heading. A girl is twisting the tail of the family cow, to make it hurry home…  The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
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  • This is early morning during what’s known as the Holiday of sacrifice (Eid-e Qurban) – one of the most important Muslim holidays where they slaughter one sheep from their herd. Drop of blood from the sheep on their forehead.
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  • On a roof of her house, a woman takes a break in a tent made of branches and sometimes used for the warmer days in summer.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170829_03213.jpg
  • Group of men going to carry hay. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.  Early morning, this group of men, most of them are relatives, get together, carrying this wooden tools, like gigantic food clips. They are used to clip huge quantity of hay in it, and bring it to a shed. Without a strong sense of community, you could not survive there.
    MM8717_170831_03864.jpg
  • Flames come out of  the "dildung" also known as Tandoor (traditional cylindrical oven) while the daughter of Nida Khan prepares salty milk tea. Pots of water are constantly being heated up throughout the day and used for cooking, drinking or washing hands and face. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170903_04973.jpg
  • Kosim and son Ato Mohammed. At the hotsprings above a village. It’s a great luxury to have a hot spring, it means it’s easy to was yourself and your cloth all year round. There is obviously no running water in people’s home. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
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  • The small school funded by the Aga Khan Foundation.  Wakhis are Ismaili, thei spiritual leader is the Aga Khan – the Aga Khan foundation is very influencial in the region and one of the corner stone of the organization is education.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02055.jpg
  • This is Bejoda and her son Javed, as I enter their house for tea. There are only about 70.000 Wakhis and they are split between Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Pakistan and China, all in the Pamir mountains. They speak an Indo-European language, it’s a very poetic language. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02192.jpg
  • Two young girls (Anor Gul, 6 and Gul Shira, 7) just stepped out of the house to meet with boys and go get wood – one of the many chores. They are walking past bushes of seabuck thorn, a fast growing bush used as fuel and to fence off animals.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170829_02870.jpg
  • Return of the herds in the evening. Animal husbandry is a big part of life in the Wakhan – there are high pasture and the herds return in the evening. Sheep is for eating of course, but it’s also used in barter, to acquire goods like extra flour etc.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170829_03237.jpg
  • Poymona is 11 years old. He is just returning from herding the village’s 100 sheep or so. While at it, he collected wood for his home. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170829_03223.jpg
  • These women are talking in the shade of this + - 400 old tree. It’s one of the many holy places in the Wakhan, called Ostone. They are cleaning the floor of the small pieces of wood that fell overnight and then putting them away behind them, at the base of the tree. Although they are muslims, many of their religious practices show the herirage pf previous beliefs like animism, fire worshipping, Buddhism etc This shrine named "Saïd Brom". In the village of Kipkut. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170903_05321.jpg
  • Bakh Shoh (left) and his relative. They are about to go in the field for work, wearing their everyday cloth. In Wakhan, work tasks are interchangeable, there is equality between sexes, that’s mainly due to the fact that here everyone is Ismaili, a branch of Islam that is very liberal whose spiritual leader is the Aga Khan – a multimillionaire, Harvard graduate living in Europe.
    MM8717_170912_08084.jpg
  • A woman breastfeeding with her family around. Family life in a Wakhi home. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170901_04510.jpg
  • Women disperse at the end of an official opening of an itinerant school aimed at educating women and their children. The school was initiated by the Rupani foundation.  The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
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  • Aziz Begum is readjusting her veil after I took pictures of her and her brothers. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
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  • Girl. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
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  • Abdul Qadir, a dombra musician and a Police man. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
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  • A women breastfeeding her newly born.  The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
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  • Girl taking care of the family herd.  The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170827_01687.jpg
  • A boy protects himself from the heat of the fire that his mother started in the main room of his house. She will prepare salty milk tea for the boy. People from this region used to be Zoroastrian (Fire and Sun worshippers) before they converted to Islam few hundred years ago. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02223.jpg
  • A man carrying hay. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02472.jpg
  • Father and son. Nazir Dod and his son Farzod. At the house of Arif Baig. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02514.jpg
  • At the house of Arif Baig. The man here is an opium addict, and his niece takes care of him. Opium is brought from the lower valley and used to relief pain, when someone is sick.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02538.jpg
  • Bibi Hawa (red shirt) and Gul Shera on the look out for stray calves. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02545.jpg
  • A pink jacket lays on top of hay.  The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
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  • A pre-islamic shrine, called Chilkan.  The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170830_03713.jpg
  • Young girl with the family calf. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170830_03750.jpg
  • Man resting in a Wakhi home. Aziz Baig. House of Khalifa Azim. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170830_03793.jpg
  • A boy has decorated his eyes with blood from a sacrified sheep. The festivities around the muslim celebration of Eid-e Qurban (the holiday of Sacrifice). The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170901_04082.jpg
  • Women hand over bowls of traditional "bat", a mixture of flour, water, butter and salt. The festivities around the muslim celebration of Eid-e Qurban (the holiday of Sacrifice). The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170901_04310.jpg
  • Mother and daughter gathering left over hay on their wheat field. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170901_04417.jpg
  • Portrait young girls. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170901_04452.jpg
  • House of Nida Khan. Typical Wakhi interior, smoked up from the morning routine. Women will do lots of milk tea and flat bread called Non – House typically host between 15 and 30 people, so women will cook up to 30 large none bread for the whole day. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170903_04898.jpg
  • Men carrying dry hay to their home.  The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170904_05485.jpg
  • Returning home with calves. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170904_05588.jpg
  • Moonlight, night shot of Baba Tangi (6513m). The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170905_05940.jpg
  • Portrait of Ato Mohammed at the hotsprings. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170906_06131.jpg
  • Kid on his donkey. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170907_06538.jpg
  • Man carrying hand made wooden ladder.  The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170907_06544.jpg
  • A man drops his sheep skin coat. He is a paid worker. Khuda Baz. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170908_06731.jpg
  • Saidola. Wakhi home. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170908_06747.jpg
  • The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170909_06961.jpg
  • House of Kush Namaz and Darvish. The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
    MM8717_170910_07622.jpg
  • This woman  just married. Here she dries her hair in front of the open fire. That’s in a home where I stayed 12 years ago. House of Kush Namaz and Darvish. The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
    MM8717_170910_07650.jpg
  • The head woman of the household, named Samarkand, bless the house with burning "Spandr", a local herb - a Pamiri tradition.  The festivities around the muslim celebration of Eid-e Qurban (the holiday of Sacrifice). The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170901_04272.jpg
  • Portrait of man named Bakh Shoh, puts away his orange radio. The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
    MM8717_170912_08104.jpg
  • In the field, cutting hay to dry it and feed the animals in winter.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02398.jpg
  • Husband and wife doing field work. The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
    MM8717_170911_07959.jpg
  • Portrait of Two Wakhi women, wearing everyday clothes. House of Bakh Shoh. The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
    MM8717_170911_07988.jpg
  • Bakh Shoh. The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
    MM8717_170912_08081.jpg
  • Najiba. The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
    MM8717_170912_08088.jpg
  • House of Bakh Shoh. The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
    MM8717_170912_08115.jpg
  • House of Bakh Shoh. The life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. Trekking with Paul Salopek.
    MM8717_170912_08121.jpg
  • Mother and grand son. What they wear is all home made, and parents often pin some kind of small talisman to the kid’s jacket – you can see it here on the left. There can be a piece of the Koran, this will protect kids against the evil eye. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170905_05911.jpg
  • Working on the threshing floor, with donkeys. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains. This is Afghanistan, the Wakhan corridor – those mountains on the right, this is Tajikistan, and to the left behind the mountains is Pakistan. When We arrived in late August, all the villages were buzzing with agricultural activities, here men are threshing with cows, a practice that has been going on for 1000 of years. Not a drop of oil is used for producing food.
    MM8717_170830_03671.jpg
  • Mobarek Shoh. Young Wakhi singer and his piano, returning from a music gig. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170831_04026.jpg
  • Men huddled in a house during a wake, following a funeral.  The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170831_04045.jpg
  • Girl wearing green in the wheat field. Family of Khon Jon, after a visit to their ancestor's grave. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170901_04600.jpg
  • Old Buddhist stupa in Vrang village. A stupa is a mound-like structure containing relics (śarīra - typically the remains of Buddhist monks or nuns) that is used as a place of meditation.<br />
Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170821_00138.jpg
  • Donkeys and men trekking between Yamchun village and Darshai. Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170822_00384.jpg
  • Tourists with their car on the Mongol Rally - linking United Kingdon to Mongolia.<br />
Trekking between Yamchun village and Darshai. Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170822_00400.jpg
  • Tourist doing selfie with selfie stick with Afghanistan in the background. <br />
Trekking between Yamchun village and Darshai. Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170822_00623.jpg
  • Paul Salopek at a camping spot next to Darshai village. Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170823_00673.jpg
  • Trees and field. <br />
Trekking between Yamchun village and Darshai. Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170822_00602.jpg
  • Horseman on the Pamir highway. Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170823_00674.jpg
  • Paul Salopek walking with Firuz next to decaying soviet electrical poles. <br />
Trekking between Darshai and Namadgut village.<br />
Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170823_00696.jpg
  • Invited inside a house at Udit village. <br />
Trekking between Darshai and Namadgut village.<br />
Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170823_00718.jpg
  • Camping in Namadgud village. <br />
Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170823_00841.jpg
  • Tajik soldier manning the Afghan Tajik border.  The Pyanj river, also known as Amu Darya. The ancient Qaqa Fortress ruins near Namadgud village. <br />
Trekking between Namadgud village and Ishkashim town. Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170824_00932.jpg
  • Tajik man of Wakhi origin posing as an Afghan for paid picture opportunities. The ancient Qaqa Fortress ruins near Namadgud village. <br />
Trekking between Namadgud village and Ishkashim town. Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170824_00944.jpg
  • Lunch in Ishkashim. Sights and places to see while walking along the Tajikistan side of the Wakhan Corridor.
    MM8717_170824_01064.jpg
  • Harvesting wheat. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.  Here a father and his kids cutting barley while one of the rare truck (there are about once a week in summer) goes to deliver goods in the very few shops that are sprinkled along.
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  • A singer, the Aga Khan Foundation regional director and a police man. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170826_01149.jpg
  • Wakhi house interior at Qazideh village. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170826_01224.jpg
  • Abdul Qadir, playing the traditional dombra musical instrument. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170826_01259.jpg
  • Carrying wheat. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170827_01301.jpg
  • Workig in the wheat field. Nothing is mechanized. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170827_01401.jpg
  • Teacher in front of black board at a government school . The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
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  • Girls drinking water. Water pipe project initiated by the Aga Khan Foundation .  The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170827_01466.jpg
  • Field work. The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170827_01594.jpg
  • Field work . The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170827_01605.jpg
  • A women breastfeeding her newly born. Jumagul is the head of the tiny village . The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
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  • 2 young students on their daily 45 minutes walk to go from their village, to the school in the village next door. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_01875.jpg
  • Two teachers and 3 young students on their daily 45 minutes walk to go from their village to the school in the village next door. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_01932.jpg
  • Two teachers. The small school  funded by the Aga Khan Foundation. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_01939.jpg
  • The small school in Urgent village, funded by the Aga Khan Foundation. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_01978.jpg
  • View over the Wakhan.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02173.jpg
  • Doing wicker bag. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02190.jpg
  • Grand mother pulling the string of a baby cot. House of Arif Baig.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02253.jpg
  • Woman readjusting her veil. House of Arif Baig.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02255.jpg
  • White house and dog. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02399.jpg
  • Boys playing in trees. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02506.jpg
  • Woemn in the kitchen. Lal Ma and Bibi Hawa lifting a caldron. At the house of Arif Baig.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170828_02511.jpg
  • Three young girls (Bibi Hawa, 8, in red, Anor Gul, 6 and Gul Shira, 7) are watching over calves and walking to the village.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170829_02894.jpg
  • Pink cloth drying in the wind.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170829_02977.jpg
  • In the field, cutting hay to dry it and feed the animals in winter.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170829_02603.jpg
  • In the field, cutting hay to dry it and feed the animals in winter.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170829_02627.jpg
  • A man on a donkey.  trip up and down the pastures belonging to the village.<br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170829_02796.jpg
  • Woman cutting wheat by hand. <br />
The traditional life of the Wakhi people, in the Wakhan corridor, amongst the Pamir mountains.
    MM8717_170829_02766.jpg
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