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"1999" Pakistan, the first year

38 images Created 11 Dec 2012

“1999” Pakistan, the first year.

In July 1999, at the impressionable age of 25, my girlfriend and I left New York with a one-way ticket to Pakistan. We headed for the mountains. They were gigantic and treacherous; the people living amongst them were warm and touching. Soon we were addicted. We opened up new passes, learned the language, went into the wild. Karakoram, Hindu Kush, Pamir, year after year, we must have trekked over 3000 Kilometers.

I was near K2 on 9/11. Soon I was asked to go and photograph demonstrations in the streets of Islamabad. I tried, but it didn’t feel right – this was not the Pakistan I wanted to portray. In October 2001 we had to leave, obeying our embassy’s advice: the airport might get bombed. We flew to Bangkok, leaving most of our stuff, our friends, our life behind.

I didn’t take many pictures during that first year in Pakistan – film was expensive and a round trip to the nearest photo store was a 35 hours bus journey through the Karakoram. I had a Nikon F100 and a Horizon, a cheap Russian panoramic camera. I was walking the hills, experimenting, learning.
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  • An old Burushaski woman..Hunza, Pakistan. Hunza people, Women and men
    Pak_Hunza_025.jpg
  • Sleeping out under the star, at the border between China and Pakistan. Pakistan..Trekking through remote Karakoram, in the Shimshal, Braldu and Shaksgam valley, finding human remains in unexplored caves hinting to the existence of an ancient trading route between Baltistan and China. Summiting unclimbed 6000m peak. Northen Pakistan, on the border with China (Xinjiang).
    Pak_Braldu_906_04.jpg
  • In Chilma Rabbot, below the Boroghil pass entering Afghanistan's Wakhan Corridor, whinowing wheat. Matthieu and Mareile Paley trekking with a donkey named Clementine over 5 high passes across the Hindukush, between Pakistan and Afghanistan.
    N_Pak_Baltistan_Donkey_0904_010.jpg
  • A flock of geese migrating through the Karakoram, flying above 5000m...Trekking through remote Karakoram, in the Shimshal, Braldu and Shaksgam valley, finding human remains in unexplored caves hinting to the existence of an ancient trading route between Baltistan and China. Summiting unclimbed 6000m peak. Northen Pakistan, on the border with China (Xinjiang).
    Pak_Braldu_906_057.jpg
  • Near Shimshal pass...Trekking through remote Karakoram, in the Shimshal, Braldu and Shaksgam valley, finding human remains in unexplored caves hinting to the existence of an ancient trading route between Baltistan and China. Summiting unclimbed 6000m peak. Northen Pakistan, on the border with China (Xinjiang).
    Pak_Braldu_906_41.jpg
  • The way to China...Trekking through remote Karakoram, in the Shimshal, Braldu and Shaksgam valley, finding human remains in unexplored caves hinting to the existence of an ancient trading route between Baltistan and China. Summiting unclimbed 6000m peak. Northen Pakistan, on the border with China (Xinjiang).
    Pak_Braldu_906_16.jpg
  • Young polo players on the edge of Skardu town, in Baltistan province, Karakoram mountains. Pakistan.
    N_Pak_Baltistan_42.jpg
  • Walking on the sand dunes near Shigar town in Baltistan province, Karakoram mountains. Pakistan.
    N_Pak_Baltistan_19.jpg
  • Camping in the sand dunes near Shigar town in Baltistan province, Karakoram mountains. Pakistan.
    N_Pak_Baltistan_20.jpg
  • A glacier near the Afghan-Pakistan border - Pakistan
    1_Caravan_094.jpg
  • A Wakhi man catches a yak in Chapursan valley, Pakistan
    1_Caravan_004.jpg
  • In the valleys below the Pamir plateau inhabited by Afghan Kyrgyz live the Wakhis, an ethnic group of Tajik origins. In Pakistan, this is the last house inhabited by Wakhis before heading past the rainbow into Afghanistan and the Pamir mountain range.
    2_Wakhi_Chapursan_070.jpg
  • Mareile welcomed back at a village in Chapursan Valley, North Pakistan.
    Pak_MMTrek_15.jpg
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